ANCIENT ALLEYS

Someone once told me that I move sideways. Perhaps she was right. And perhaps that's why I enjoy small alleys..to keep me walking in the straight and narrow.

Rome, Tuscany and Florence are filled with small spaces. Narrow alleys sandwiched by ancient stone residences, boutiques, cafes or restaurants. Some also house the most famous works of art, from Boticelli, Davinci, Michaelangelo and Lippi.

One must be alert while walking aimlessly through these alleys as they could be two way streets, some of which are only wide enough to fit two small fiats and is a winding road with a blind spot and a truck speeding down from behind.

Tucked in these quaint alleys are shops with beautiful handmade plates of Tuscan design, wine shops, hand-sewn aprons or table cloths and handmade mosaics. The Tuscans are very passionate about everything they do and it is reflected in their craftsmanship.

What captivated me the most about these alleys were the renaissance architecture and old stone with fading brick facade and charming antiquated doors; which could be as high as 12 feet and as low as five feet and perfect for someone my height. On some days, you can spot an elderly woman sitting with the door ajar while knitting a blanket for a loved one. It is very endearing. Other times you may be intrigued by what is behind these antiquated doors and decide venture up the narrow staircase to find another little alley which leads to a beautiful hilltop view.

In Pienza, the alleys are named with love in mind, such as Via del Bacio, Via dell Amore and Via Bella Fortuna. What a pretty Tuscan town with a no vehicle policy. Atop some of the balconies in this picturesque town known for it's Pecorino cheese, are beautiful potted geraniums and petunias in vibrant colors. Bikes abound in this little town which are parked in a corner off the alley with no lock and key. You can also find the summer home of the late Pope Pius II. Pienza was declared a World Heritage site in 1996 and in 2004, the entire district of Val d'Orcia including Pienza was included onUNESCO's list of World Cultural Landscapes.

While in Orvieto, the narrow alleys lead you to one of the world's most magnificent Duomo (cathedral). Or it can lead you to the caves and tunnels that are still very prevalent in this little tourist town.

In Rome, one can get lost looking for the Fontana Trevi, Fontana Novana and some other tourist spots. These alleys cut through one another or are filled with vehicular mayhem from motorcycles, vespas, fiats and trucks. We found it rather difficult to navigate through the alleys and main roads in the vicinity of the Vatican and Rome where parking is also limited.

Aside from Florence's most magnificent Duomo and Medici museums are busy alleys with pizza and gelato shops, cafes, jewelry stores and boutiques. Florence's alleys were incredibly crowded with tourists and students. From the Duomo, take a long walk through Via Roma, which will lead you towards the famous"old bridge" Ponte Vecchio". It was the first bridge built to cross the Arno River; and is the only medieval bridge in Florence. The bridge once housed butchers but now it's multi-storied shops now house jewelry shops and art dealers. The bridge is narrow, very crowded and the shops offer only a few bargains.

There you have it...antique alleys that either lead to artisans, jewelry stores, or hilltop views, the choice is yours. But wherever the alley takes you whether you're in Rome, Florence, Pienza, Montepulciano(the list is endless), you can't make a wrong turn; for each turn can lead you to a picturesque landscape, an endearing moment or an expensive but well deserved shopping spree.

CIBO E VINO

Tuscan cuisine was simply a gastronomical delight. Feasting on fresh vegetables, superb pecorino cheese from Pienza and drinking the finest Vino Noble from Montepulciano did not do wonders for our wasteline but was truly a treat. The Tuscan's like to cook simply and the flavors burst into your palette like a symphony.

We hired a professional cook, Doriana, to indulge us in Tuscan cuisine and she did not disappoint. Doriana, her husband, Claudio and their son, Andreas, the translator, presented us with a four course meal which they prepared in our kitchen. She cooked with fresh local ingredients.

Dorianna started as off with bruschetta and eggplant tapenade. It sounds simple but when you bite into the crispy Tuscan bread topped with fresh tomatoes drizzled with locally produced deep emerald green extra virgin olive oil, you find yourself immediately wanting more. The eggplant and mushroom tapenade were out of this world delicious.

Doriana's second course was a spinach and pecorino cheese souffle. Again, we just had to ask for more and it kept coming. Just as we thought we had to take a little rest from the gastronomic delight, our third course was served. Doriana's fresh pasta with either vegetable or meat ragu was simple yet savory. The fresh tomatoes combined with the strong purple fresh basil was devine. We were so full but refused to put our forks down until the last morsel was wiped off our plate.

The final course was Doriana's signature Grandma's Cake. This heavenly cake was baked with pignoli and almond and had a rich custard center which was served warm. It looked deceivingly heavy it but turned out to be sumptuously light and gratifying. Truly, the meal was cooked with LOVE.

As for the VINO, you can buy inexpensive but very drinkable Sangiovese wine for Euro 1.49 at the supermarket and not get a hangover the next day. Or you can purchase the better Vino Noble variety from nearby Montepulciano which cost about Euro 10 per bottle but was delightfully smooth and drank like a much more expensive bottle.

The Italians are passionate about their wines with several local garagiste producers selling inexpensive but good quality wines.

For as much fresh Cibo (food) and Vino consumed in Tuscany, I could not help but notice how slim and fit the local people appeared. I can only deduce that lack of fast foods and the freshness of the ingredients that go into the Tuscan diet lend to a healthier lifestyle.

Stay tuned for more Happy Indulgences...